Finger training rock climbing at home reddit.
Reddit's rock climbing training community.
Finger training rock climbing at home reddit. MembersOnline • BigCoolWalrus ADMIN MOD To me, it just doesn't make sense to forbid serious and controlled fingerboard training while recommending climbing more (usually in worse crimps, doing fairly dynamic moves and probably while tired). Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. 69 votes, 32 comments. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Just wanted to share this sweet new toy I got to help me maintain my finger training, while I’m travelling in the next couple months. Dedicated to increasing all our… Feb 24, 2023 · Finger strength, though critical to climbing performance, is just one component to climbing hard. Hey all, I've been climbing for a couple years now (climbing V4 getting into V5 at this time) and would like to get into hang boarding/finger strengthing exercices. On the day after climbing days , usually my fingers feel destroyed/sore, and I always feel a lot better doing the routine. Apr 28, 2022 · Our BEST Home Rock Climbing Training Equipment guide. I've realized that I more or less never use 3FD in actual climbing, though I have begun training it on the hangboard in addition to half-crimp. g. MembersOnline • eshlow ADMIN Broken finger from a past life preventing me from training and climbing HARD A couple years ago a friend and I had a friendly Brazilian jujitsu match outside of a bar parking lot. Think of your home training in this sense: what can I do at home, so that at the gym I can focus more on my technique than just staying on the wall! That said here's my list: - Working on being able to do some pull-ups can be quite useful especially if you are unable to do any at this stage. the At home training plan for bouldering strength from Louis Parkinson (I made a video about that on my YT channel if you are interested), Lattice Training, Andrew McFarlane or Shauna Coxsey. Get a resistance band and get working. Any recommendations for wrist, grip, and finger exercises to get a better hold? Specifically exercises I can do on days off from climbing, with little to no equipment (unless there’s something so awesome that you can’t not recommend it) (Also I can’t put a hang board in my apartment) Thanks y’all! I’ve thrown grip training in to my weekly routines. 172K subscribers in the climbharder community. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. Recently I've been working on higher rated climbs indoors (v7-v9) where there is a need to latch smaller edges (single pad or less) dynamically/via a deadpoint. If you’re hangboarding at home and can’t climb to warm up, improvise. . It doesn't leave any option for pull-ups at home though. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. I Boulder V2 and climb 5. If you’ve ever injured a finger pulley, you’re keenly aware of the structure. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Jun 23, 2024 · Utilizing Finger Strength in Climbing Moves Incorporating finger strength into your climbing moves is essential for tackling challenging bouldering problems. But your training should work both. Dec 18, 2020 · Climbing is a mental and technical skill sport that requires regular practice and devotion, and paying attention to your finger strength is crucial if you want to climb safely. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. May 10, 2022 · Unlike regular climbing hangboards, portable hangboards help you warm up at a crag. Check it out! So the other posters have covered the obvious "these aren't super useful" so I'll directly answer the question of how best to use them. MembersOnline • sloshedup ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. So my fingers are taking a bit of a battering. Just climb and allow your hands to become acclimated to these new stresses - otherwise you are going to injure yourself. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. My climbing grade has drastically jumped, I will say all other factors such as sleep, diet, etc were basically the same throughout the injuries and climbing career other than my finger training. Here are 19 rock climbing home workouts you can do instead. Finger In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Any tips to gain back some mobility ? 205 votes, 98 comments. Too much intensity + volume together. Just had my first cycle on it and I gotta say, after over a month struggling to maintain consistency using all types of hangboards, campus rungs, resistance bands and a couple nothings when I just couldn’t find a gym, it feels GREAT. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. Most feature a variety of edge sizes, finger pockets, and grips that mimic common hand positions and movements used in rock climbing. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any So if you struggle with situations where you can hit a hold open hand, but need to roll up into a crimp, finger rolls are pretty clearly a good idea. MembersOnline • [deleted] ADMIN MOD Apr 1, 2022 · Strains, sprains and other injuries are common among climbers, but they don’t have to be. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. As sennzz pointed out already, a lot of coaches/coaching platforms propose to use half crimp e. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. In terms of their place in a general finger training routine, I think it makes the most sense to program them 1-3 times a year for 3-6 weeks at a time, mainly in the off season. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. He makes this video super complicated with a title "how to get stronger fingers". This is a nice and easily storable solutions. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. Sign up for Strength Training For Injury Prevention with Dr. The best climbing gym gear for finger strength, pulling power, plus a strong core Reddit's rock climbing training community. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a hangboard in your place. Over the last few months (even before the beastmaker training) I've noticed that my fingers are feeling more stiff and sore than usual after climbing and this is especially the case in the top knuckles (closest to the nail). any tips on how to increase grip strength? Something i can do while im not climbing? thanks Apr 6, 2020 · Follow this at-home, all-levels training routine recommended by Nelson to help maintain your climbing strength and keep you prepared for a return to the gym or crag. 8. Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? Grip training in climbing is one of the most popular and necessary aspects of climbing training. Any exercises/plans you'd recommend for someone in my position? I have a Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. Block Pulls offer variety and some specific advantages Mar 26, 2025 · Climbing near your onsight level should suffice. How do I actually train for climbing? Especially now that im stuck home for quarantine. This has hindered my climbing. Focus on engaging your fingers and utilizing your finger strength to make precise and controlled movements on the holds. Generally two big contributors to causing injuries in my experience are over training. If you haven’t, you might not even know they exist. How forearm training improves our climbing? I'll start that by forearm training I don't mean any types of static hangs/holds but rather exercises like dumbbell (wrist) curls , reverse curls, wrist rotation etc. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. On climbing days my fingers have started feel fantastic, if I didn't have time during the day I do it as my warm up paired with recruitment pulls. May 15, 2021 · Don't want to go to the climbing gym tonight? You don't have to. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. These are also the perfect tool for at-home training or to get your blood flowing before the real thing at the gym. My grip fails on certain holds. All the trainings I find imply that you have to be able to hang feet off the ground and lift your own weight, which I'm incapable of at this moment in time. So I've been climbing for about 8 months now and I climb around V4/V5 but I've never actually had proper training or anything aside from watching a couple videos when I first started. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. I was wondering if anyone has figure out a way to increase grip strength for things like rock climbing when they have hypermobility in their hands/fingers? You should not be finger training until you are 2 years or so into climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our… But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. He basically stretched 1 minute video into 25 minutes missing all the crucial points. MembersOnline • Beauboon ADMIN MOD Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Is there any research if such type of training translates to improved grip or fingers strength? Have any of you found this exercises Dec 23, 2024 · Effective 3 Ways To Build Grip Strength For Rock Climbing At Home Rock climbing is one of the fastest-growing sports over the last decade and it isn’t surprising why. How climbers get STRONG fingers (3 methods) Emil Abrahamsson 255K subscribers Subscribed Reddit's rock climbing training community. You can get the files Reddit's rock climbing training community. Yet he makes no comments on training fatigue, periodization, progressive overload or how to fit these in a weekly training program that includes climbing. MembersOnline • Mammoth_Okra4138 ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. I have very strong upper body strength, but my hands/fingers have very weak grip strength because my fingers are so loose & flexible. Doing a 15-20-minute ARC session (see these Training Endurance tips) followed by 10-15 minutes of bouldering near your onsight level is also a good way to warm up. The cumulative fatigue on your fingers is the sum of everything you did in the last few weeks, so people are Reddit's rock climbing training community. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Wrist curls and reverse wrist curls, plate pinches, dead hangs, and a grip trainer. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Hey, As years of climbing (and training) goes, I feel that I'm loosing mobility in my fingers. What would you consider the most important of them to train (if you had to only pick one due to time constraints) in order to move forward? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Combining a finger program with mental conditioning and movement training can further optimize per 143 votes, 85 comments. Dedicated to increasing all our… In between I have started more specific finger training on a beastmaker. Apr 24, 2023 · Fingerboards are the most specific to climbing positions, and are the preferred starting point if no other factors need to be considered. Mar 10, 2023 · Having strength and being able to apply strength are two different things. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jared Vagy and you’ll learn the proper way to train, and be on your way to injury-free climbing. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. Whether you are just starting to train grip strength or you are looking for something new to add to your grip training regimen, these training exercises are a great way to build your grip strength. Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Thanks a lot for sharing! Good content. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Some of it can do at home, some at the gym in the middle of doing other stuff. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). There’s so many things that can contribute to injuries and everyone is at different stages of their climbing career, but here’s a couple of key points imo. For example, I cannot fully flex my middle fingers (L + R). If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. My default grip on the wall is usually a mixture of open crimp (4 fingers on with 3/4 Reddit's rock climbing training community. Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. com Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. But still good post, thanks. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Hi all, I recently got into bouldering and I'm having lots of fun! But the thing that holds me back from this is my fingers and forearm gets tired too fast. MembersOnline • Toidiu ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Although all of it is doable at home with the right kit. This is why training to strengthen your fingers is crucial if you want to take your climbing skills to the next level. Years later it is still swollen and plump. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. I woke up and realize my finger was crooked with the knuckle swollen and plump. vnagducqnvghqumwszelukapcntvvujzbdcpfztqgebwcwblgnch