Climbing cam sizes. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits.

• Climbing cam sizes. Hey! By the way… this page contains affiliate links. From left to right they are: Wild Country New Friend, Black Diamond C4, Totem Cam Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Our current review features the 10 best camming devices found on climbers' racks today. This review focuses on two new sizes at opposite ends of the range. The average useable range per cam is actually larger for the ULMCs (11. A rack of cams is a set of cams in a range of sizes to fit a range of crack placements. Sep 5, 2016 · Black Diamond Camelot C4 Cam Sets The gold standard for camming units, Black Diamond Camalots' double-axle design allows retraction of larger cam lobes, giving them a much larger expansion range than traditional single-axle units. Thanks for your support!. Be careful to make sure it is talking about cam sizes and not inches. While there are bigger and smaller In every size you can get them (a hair over BD#0. 3oz more than the BD Ultralights and covers the same range with six cams that BD covers with 5. 5 ounces (128g) over the same range. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. Yes, get a set of nuts. A crack is usually described based on how one’s hand fits into it. 5-3, and Master Cams or Aliens for smaller sizes. Put another way, if you accidentally grab a cam that is the wrong size off your harness, it may still fit in the crack, and the cams allow a bit of The best climbing cam is going to be your best friend out there on your rock climbing adventure. 6 Dec 9, 2015 · So if you are Leading then Size 1, 2 and 3 Black Diamond Camalots kept me good for a number of years. Data sourced from Steph Abegg's website. Cam Comparison Chart "What's the equivalent?" Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. 8mm, or . If you are setting up Top Ropes (for the pedantic amongst you, Bottom Ropes) then use nuts & Hex's instead of Cams. The bright red color Aug 12, 2024 · We think the DMM Dragonfly cams are some of the best small camming devices you can buy, especially among those that largely follow the “ alien ” design. However, our testers unanimously I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 6 – 12. Like all Camalots from No. Clyde's Climbing Cam Chart See full list on climbonequipment. The Angel cam now comes in two sizes: Size 1 covers 26 to 100 mm, and Size 2 covers 46 to 145 mm. Jul 4, 2012 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Camalots use a dual-axle system, resulting in a slightly higher expansion range than similarly sized single axle units, however that results in significant weight penalty. The asymmetric cam lobes give almost twice the range of conventional cams, and they are more stable than symmetric cams of the same size. This section will delve into the specifics of various cam types, highlighting their strengths and weaknesses to help you make informed decisions. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. 8 (rated to 5kN; protects from 7. Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. Oct 4, 2019 · In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. Home Shop By Category Climbing Hardware Alien CamsAlien Cams Tried & tested. 3 (range of 0. Because of the wide range of cams and their range of function, for simplicity, we will focus on general-purpose cams, picking our choices from the large/medium and small range. Innovative spring technology gives precise, equally-tensioned trigger pull throughout the entire range, and the Kevlar trigger material is light, strong and field maintainable. May 15, 2018 · Our experts extensively reviewed and rated the Omega Pacific Link Cams based on transparent, objective criteria against similar products in the Climbing Cams category. It's like having 4 or 5 different cam sizes, which is why we decided to call it “ANGEL”. This lets dual axle cams fit more placements and have greater overlap between sizes, allowing you to carry fewer units to protect the same range of cracks. com Feb 25, 2015 · Individual cams come in a huge range of sizes, from micro-sized cams that fit the tinniest 1/4”-sized fissures of rock, to 6”, 7”, even 8”-sized off-width/chimney-sized cracks. May 9, 2024 · Range of Sizes When looking for climbing cams, it's crucial to consider a range of sizes, as having options from small, medium, to large can help you securely place gear in a wider variety of rock cracks. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. Created in the limestone capital of the universe (Spain What are rock climbing friends? Like other climbing devices such as belays, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, a climbing friend or cam is also an essential safety piece used for secure holds when climbing. The following photo shows several of the reviewed cams. Each Black Diamond cam covers a wider range, thanks to the double axle design, but cam for cam, the Metolius cams are lighter. These camalot C4's come in Jan 30, 2018 · Black Diamond X4s are an excellent complement to the Black Diamond C4s, offering more flexibility and narrower heads than their C4 counterparts, and keeping with the same familiar BD size range and color scheme. 31 inches. When you get a bit better and climbing harder routes then you'll tend to see the need for a couple of smaller cams in the range. The C3s are tri-cam units. In the most commonly used sizes, one can carry 7 ULMC cams and, even with the new C4s, save 4. The core of the cam rack for any trad climb. When you select this, I'll also show you lines indicating where 10% and 60% expansion range is. Speaking of which, each size is color-coded for ultimate convenience. Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. 5, 0. Anything larger than 2” is heavier and harder to place; plus, it’s more likely that an SLCD will fit into a placement where you can get a large Tricam. Fixe has faithfully reproduced the original Alien flexible cam design - order direct from Mountain Tools. Originally picked them up because they were on sale and have worked well enough for me not to look elsewhere. Jul 24, 2019 · For sizes 2 through 8, a Range Finder system is available for you to choose the correct cam size while you are climbing. Compare different climbing cams. 2 to approximately BD#2) Totems are undoubtable the best. Jun 16, 2020 · The Black Diamond C4 No. 6–12. In these situations we Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. , Mike P. It retains its original character, with a version that has been improved in terms of performance and finishes. 4 on up, the Nos. Many people consider 10% and 60% expansion to be a reasonable usable range for cams, but these numbers may differ from cam to cam and also depend on your risk tolerance. Just as a note Jan 12, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. May 15, 2018 · The red is the largest Alien Revolution available and is comparable in size to a . 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. They come in six sizes, ranging from a purple one-inch piece (they follow the same color scheme as Black Diamond cams), down to an incredibly tiny 7. Compared to first and second generation camming devices, modern day cams have come a long way and today there are many fine cams to choose from when building a rack. Dual axle design for expanded range Dual axle cams have a greater expansion range than single axle designs, allowing them to fit a greater range of crack sizes. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Characteristics: Superb holding power Explore our diverse collection of rock climbing cam sizes, designed to meet the needs of every climber—whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro. The wide size range per unit means that it is easier to find the cam you need for the size placement you want it to fit into. Extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength A cornerstone of climbing since 1987, the Camalot C4 is the standard for trad climbing. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. While it turns out that the chimney-protecting No. The Neat and Cool Cam Buying Guide Due to the ease and convenience of quickly selecting, placing, and removing cams, and with their superior performance in parallel cracks, cams are the staple of the modern day crack climbing rack. 7 (rated to 8kN; protects from 5. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Cam Range Guide Minimum Range Placement is secure, but difficult to place and remove. The strength, durability, and grip of these little climbing tools will be the difference between having a safe experience and a dangerous one. Where will you be climbing? The basic trad rack varies by area, but a lot of people like C4's from . 5 (purple) Camalot Ultralight or #3 Metolius Ultralight Cam, the middle of the range for many cam types. These highly engineered, sort of affordable, shiny spring-loaded gadgets allow safe passage up cracks narrower than a centimeter up to wide enough to fit your body inside. 7 and 8 have Tested and proven by decades of climbers, the Wild Country Friend 6-cam set (#0. 97 inches) and the No. 21 Camalot was an April Fool’s gag, on that same day Black Diamond quietly added two big, new offwidth cams to their C4 line: the No. Whether we’re protecting thin seams, offset cracks, or marginal features, the Totem Cam gives us the confidence to keep climbing, even when the gear gets thin. Old route descriptions could mention gear in original wild country friend sizing. Learn how to place climbing cams. Behold the patent-pending RigidFlex stem. Our selection features top-performing models, including the versatile Angel Cam with its unique size range, the innovative Camalot Z4 with rigid-flex technology for secure placements, and the The Ultralight Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. May 24, 2020 · The Fixe Alien Revolutions are a compelling cam for finger size placements thanks to their weight, range, and flexibility. Size ranges are in mm; each row represents 1 mm so the visual representation is approximate, but it can give you a good view of size overlaps across manufacturers. They have an incredibly flexible stem, allowing them to hold better in pods and pin scars where their cams can't be vertically aligned. This generally refers to a set of 6 cams ranging from a Black Diamond C4 size 0. Also old Jun 15, 2020 · In general, narrow cam heads, flexible stems, very small sizes, and offset units are all great advantages when aid climbing, and the Z4s have all of these attributes, so we expect them to function pretty well, at least on mellower clean aid routes. While a Size (mm) 140160 Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 81" Supercams are for medium to large sized Apr 4, 2025 · Our expert team has a combined 40 years of climbing experience and has field-tested the best climbing gear since the inception of our site, with 20+ climbing cams tested over the past decade. 50, is a reliable and versatile piece of climbing protection. The smallest sizes are not only really small but also have holding May 15, 2018 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are a lightweight cam with ten sizes to put on your rack, from cams smaller than your fingertips to fist size. Feb 2, 2024 · In this article, we discuss the best cam sets for trad climbing, backed by reviews from the climbing experts and the consensus of the climbing community. 4, 0. 54 – 0. Pretty much always in black diamond size numbers. Hey Giga, Protection is based on where you are and what you are climbing. Featuring light sculpted lobes and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4-#8. Here are the results. There are also “offset” cams, which have lobes of different sizes to accommodate irregular cracks and pin scars. Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is used. Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. 92 inches) to the #8 (covering 7. However their tiny size makes them extra sensitive to the vagaries of camming devices - holding power Apr 11, 2019 · A flexible stem makes this workhorse of a cam bomber in horizontal placements, while the ergonomic thumb loop makes them easy to place when you're pumped silly. Thanks to the indepe This is how AC guarantees proper function and safety of such a complex cam. All Black Diamond SLCDs have single stems and offset cam axes. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. 34" to 1. They are lightweight, the cable loop and trigger are easy to grab, and their patented slings are large enough to manipulate with gloves. Its robust construction ensures dependable performance in challenging placements, making it ideal for trad climbing and other adventurous pursuits. Understanding the nuances of different cam designs and their suitability for various rock types and crack sizes is paramount for any serious climber. Also, the larger the cam size, the greater the protection range. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. They’re the best starter camming device because they’re affordable, durable, and there’s a huge range between sizes. Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. Sep 8, 2020 · Micro cams are one of the most specialist - and among the most crucial - pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. This specific cam features a smooth, efficient camming action for quick and secure placements within cracks and fissures. Cams are quick to place, hold exceptionally well, and are easy to clean. A combination of categories as well as the number and range of sizes available and flexibility of the cam helped us arrive at a score for a cam’s versatility. Three more versatile sizes. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. Exclusive design which offers superior holding capabilities. 7). They will hold anywhere from 8-12kN if placed well which is plenty for most lead falls. The Dragons are bomber and well suited to parallel placements, with the stems being flexible enough for horizontal placements. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. I was wondering though which cams are used most, basicly what sizes should I buy? also is it worth getting stoppers in 1-3? Jun 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond C4 is the gold standard for climbing cams. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. Nov 9, 2020 · Free Climbing We love these cams for free climbing, and think they complement other small camming devices well. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. Check out our full climbing cam review to see how these cams rank versus competitors. A #6 Camalot C4 placed in a crack. 8 vs 11. Very overwhelmed on where to start. I thought I'd address that. My first rack was all nuts and the first cams I bought were . The main downsides to Aliens are their The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. The greatest overlap in ranges is biased towards the smaller protection sizes. The smallest sizes are limited to aid climbing, rated at only 5 and 6 kN and the third size, the 1/2 (green) is only rated to 7 kN. Not color-blind friendly. Here’s what you need to know about trad gear and tips to build your first trad climbing rack. 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. Also see some examples of gear-racking options. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of ho Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Sharing the data I had to dig for. Smooth action, a great range, and a somewhat rigid stem make these cams easy to place on the go when you're gripped. So often people 'exaggerate' the camming ranges of BD cams and ignore the comparison of useable ranges. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. The Range Finder system provides color coding to help new climbers find the right fit for cam placements. Durability is good with solid cam lobe and stem construction and tough Kevlar trigger wires. SAVE on a SET or FREE color matched Neutrinos $35 value. CharacteristicsSuperb holding power wi Types of Climbing Cams Choosing the right climbing cam is crucial for safe and efficient ascents. 34" to 2. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. At 50% the cost of other cams, they are the best cam for value in the fist size as well as being one of the lightest cams (even compared to BD Ultralights) while maintaining decent range and strength. So if you make a purchase after clicking one at no cost to you we may earn a small commission. BD's unique take on the “ alien ” style cam includes their trademark double-axle design in the larger sizes and a “ stacked ” double-axle design in the smaller sizes to ensure Born from a heart-to-heart with our top trad-climbing BD Athletes Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi, Sam Elias, and Babsi Zangerl, the Camalot Z4 Offsets are the realization of a dream: to have a single-stem cam that stays rigid in-hand, but flexes once placed. The just fit places other cams don't, hold where other cams don't, are silly flexible so they don't walk, and overall confidence inspiring. Apr 26, 2025 · Totem Cam, the state-of-the-art cam for climbing. The merits of I use Metolius Ultralight Master Cam in the smallest sizes and am quite happy with them. The U-shaped body has enough stiffness to align the cams correctly in a vertical crack and enough flexibility to allow for horizontal crack placements. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock can make the difference between arriving at the top of your route or at the bottom. Oct 1, 2020 · The size of the cams you need depend on the size of the crack you are climbing and need to protect. Get tips on what cams, nuts and other gear to take rock climbing and how to organize it all. Jul 8, 2025 · Bi-color slings differentiate small and large cams of similar color Sizes 4, 5, and 6 cams have trigger keepers to reduce racking volume Single stem and double axle design doubles as cam stops Large thumb loop provides a clip-in point for aid climbing Sling tags tucked under shorter bar-tack for a cleaner look Item #BLD00Z8 Jan 30, 2018 · Their main contender for lightweight champion is the Best Buy Award winning Metolius Ultralight Mastercam. Alien X Red The Alien X is the sixth generation of the micro cam that obtained its first patent in 1986, in Colorado (US). Aug 3, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Six sizes from sub-tips to fat fingers leaves no size gaps, and they're a mere two ounces heavier than the same size run of the very The state-of-the-art cams. These cams are the best option when you are just starting out trad climbing and building your first trad rack. I am currently building my trad rack and have several cams already and 4-13 in stoppers. Jul 9, 2024 · The flexible stem and narrow head width allow for placements in awkward spots where other cams struggle. Available in six sizes, the new Alien X features the following improvements: Cams with X-grip texture: Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is Max is the manufacturer listed max and min expansion range. From cams to carabiners, nuts to nut tools, there are so many options for traditional climbing gear that it’s hard to know where to begin. 7 Camalot. In addition, they resist pull in any direction, giving you added security as you confidently climb past them. Shop rock climbing protection from Black Diamond. Usable is 10% to 60% of the max range, unless a manufacturer publishes Jan 30, 2018 · DMM Dragon Cams are out to make a dent in the Black Diamond cam supremacy that seems pervasive at all American crags. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of holding power and ran Jan 30, 2018 · Free Climbing These are cams are excellent for free climbing, especially the hand and fists sizes. If you save it for yourself, you can move groups of columns around. After decades of design and redesign, modern camming devices are the preferred method of protection because of their ease of placement and removal. Range 0. Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. 3mm. The smallest C4 comes in at 0. 9–9. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. So the question is: What are the best sizes to get? i climb all around the uk, and was planning on getting a set of 3, so go Find the best climbing cams from Black Diamond, DMM, Fixe, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Totem, Trango, Wild Country. Details: Cams with X-grip texture. Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. Eventually you will find out what size crack is most fun for you and you can go from there. Shop trad climbing cams online from Trango. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot X4. May 27, 2013 · ive been climbing for a fair few years now, and ive always managed to come up with an excuse not to buy cams (other than the truth, i cant afford the buggers! so i just knick everyone elses at the bottom of the route) but im finally going to bite the bullet and buy some. 65 inches). Thanks to the indepe Apr 4, 2020 · The Trango Fist sized pieces match the pricing of the lesser known Climbing Technology and Kouba Climbing brands that you can’t get in the USA. Sep 29, 2023 ·  Author: Katy H. Oct 5, 2017 · Background info: I've been climbing on each of these cams for several years, except the Totems, which I've been climbing on for 10 months, and the Wild Country, which I purchased only a few weeks ago but used many times on a recent week-long climbing trip. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. 8mm – 28. They are less stable than the other double axle Dec 15, 2023 · There are a variety of features that differentiate cams beyond size, such as the number of cam lobes (three or four), stem design (single-cable or u-stem), axles (single or double), and expansion range. An equivalent size run of Mastercams weighs just 1. Camalot is a brand of spring-loaded camming devices manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment used to secure ropes while rock climbing. Of course, you only have one, but at least you can use it for almost everything! With six sizes to choose from, including three versatile sizes that can be used as passive anchors, the Alien X Cam is a climbing classic that you won't want to be without. The core of any trad rack are your cams. Sep 30, 2015 · The Metolius Master Cams are small single stem cams with 8 different sizes ranging from 2 sizes below the smallest Camalot/Dragon up to a size in between the Green and the Red Dragon/Camalot. In general you can see that there is a lot of overlap in protection ranges between sizes. The same camming angle of 13. 4 to #3. Power Cams: #00 - 8 Ultralight Power Cams are the lightest 4-cam units in the world! Direct Axle Technology allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements, and makes tricky placements easier due to better cam lobe visibility. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. I recommend top roping a few cracks until you find something inspiring you want to lead, then buy pro for Born from a heart-to-heart with our top trad-climbing BD Athletes Hazel Findlay, Carlo Traversi, Sam Elias, and Babsi Zangerl, the Camalot Z4 Offsets are the realization of a dream: to have a single-stem cam that stays rigid in-hand, but flexes once placed. Lighter, stronger, and lower profile than large cams in comparable sizes Huge expansion range (Big Bro #5 spans larger than any standard cam) Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. 75 an 1, the sizes that were a little too big for said nuts. Mar 1, 2025 · The Totem Climbing Cam in Red, size 1. 75, 1, 2, 3) has wide, rock-friendly cam lobes, high-friction machined faces Their huge range and sleek design save on both weight and racking space compared to large cams. Sep 6, 2013 · The smaller sizes are used mainly for aid climbing because of their diminutive slings and because they’re difficult to clean while free climbing. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. They feature the same size and color scheme as the Camalots, and the same double axle design and camming range. Apr 14, 2021 · We have written up a comprehensive step-by-step guide on how to build your very first rack for trad climbing, what you should consider and how much all this might cost you. Cams use a spring system that presses the jaws into the sides of the rock crack to hold their position firm. [1] Dual-axle was patented and for decades was only Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. A common term used to describe a set of cams is ‘a standard rack’. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. In order to give you the best experience when out climbing, we've got cams in Shop for climbing cams at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. mnlnh ncldcr yvzwrt ztqil wat jovffaai uux jty nlxntar lsz